SHARE
COPY LINK
For members

HALLOWEEN

Not many carved pumpkins but a day off: What does Italy think of Halloween?

Italy's way of marking Halloween is a little different - and a lot more restrained - than the usual celebrations in countries like the US and UK.

Halloween in Italy is about food and a day off.
Halloween in Italy is about food and a day off. Photo by David Menidrey on Unsplash

While Halloween is less of a big deal in Italy that it is in some other countries, that’s not to say it isn’t celebrated at all.

Its popularity has increased in recent years, even if some politicians and other public figures criticise the holiday for being an American import, too commercial, or not fittng with the country’s strong Catholic beliefs.

READ ALSO: Pumpkin risotto and the great wardrobe switch: How life in Italy changes when autumn arrives

Here’s a look at how Italy feels about the holiday, and how it’s usually marked.

Trick or treat

Unsurprisingly, Italian children have really taken to the idea of roaming their neighbourhood in creepy costumes demanding sugary treats.

So while it’s not as ubiquitous as it is in the USA, you may find you get a few mini ghouls or witches knocking on your door come October 31st, shouting “dolcetto o scherzetto!“ (trick or treat).

Adult celebrations mainly involve halloween-themed dinners. Restaurants across the country are increasingly putting on special Halloween dinner menus – which are more about seasonal produce than anything spooky.

Many members of The Local Italy’s Facebook group told us the holiday here is mainly for children, with shops giving out sweets and villages putting up spooky displays in the piazza.

 

Photo by Nathan Riley on Unsplash

One place you may find more raucous halloween parties is the city of Florence, which has a sizeable American population.

Italian supermarkets generally stock some Halloween decorations, costumes and candy, and while they’ll no doubt be full of pumpkins at ths time of year, the majority of Italians are buying them to cook, not carve.

One exception is the Fucacoste and Cocce Priatorje or “bonfire and heads of purgatory” – a bonfire, feast, and pumpkin-carving competition held on November 1st in Orsara di Puglia, in the southern region of Puglia.

This event, which looks more than a little similar to the western-style Halloween celebrations we’re more familiar with, is centuries old.

Public holiday

The good news is that Italians do celebrate the season in much more practical way – by having a day off work.

November 1st, All Saints Day, known as ognissanti or tutti i santi in Italian, is an official bank holiday.

There are absolutely no spooky goings-on, though.

READ ALSO: What changes in Italy in November 2021?

In the south of Italy, where onomastici or saints’ name days are observed, November 1st is everyone’s name day at once, and so you’re supposed to say auguri (congratulations) to everyone you know. Here, many families mark the day with – what else? – a big lunch.

Festa dei Morti

As in many Christian countries, November 2nd is when Italians mark their own All Souls’ Day, or Festa dei Morti, the “Day of the Dead”.

Visitors to Rome’s Verano cemetery. Photo: Filippo Monteforte/AFP.

The festival of the dead on October 31st, which has Celtic roots, was celebrated in some parts of Italy long ago. But in 1000 A.D. the Catholic Church created All Souls’ Day on November 2nd in an attempt to replace the Celtic festival with a similar. but church-approved, tradition.

Although the date and name was changed, plenty of fascinating old traditions stuck in various parts of the country.

READ ALSO: Unlucky for some: Thirteen strange Italian superstitions

But this isn’t a chance to don a scary costume, either.

Here in Italy, it’s a much calmer day of remembrance, mainly celebrated with prayers, flowers and, of course, food.

Member comments

  1. Really dislike the commercialism of Halloween. It hasn’t taken off in huge way in Australia thankfully but there are smatterings of it, with only a couple of children knocking on the door on the night.

  2. Eh, no reason to be fuddy duddies! No need to spend tends of money, just enjoy the holiday and spookiness! Don’t have to throw the baby out with the bath water.

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.

CHRISTMAS

Ten Christmas nativity scenes you’ll only see in Italy

Creative nativity scenes appear in homes, churches and public buildings across Italy in December, each one a little different. How many of these have you seen?

Handmade nativity figures for sale on Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples, often called 'Christmas Alley'.
Handmade nativity figures for sale on Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples, often called 'Christmas Alley'.. Photo: Carlo Hermann/AFP

1. The world’s largest

Let’s start with the world’s largest nativity scene, in Cinque Terre. Each year, the picturesque town of Manarola in the Liguria tourist spot is illuminated with over 15,000 lights – a tradition which began back in 1961 with a single cross.

The nativity scene today features than 150 statues illuminated using 8km of electrical cable.

IN PHOTOS: Magical nativity scene lights up Italy’s Cinque Terre coast

The Manarola nativity scene in Italy’s Cinque Terre. Photo: Marco Bertorello / AFP

2. The Vatican’s version

You might expect the scene set up in Piazza San Pietro to be the most traditional of all, but in recent years it has held surprises.

The Vatican’s nativity also now includes a QR code that takes visitors to a video about the Christmas story. There’s even a special Wifi hotspot so visitors don’t have to use up their data.

Some things never change, though: as per tradition, the baby Jesus will be added to the scene by the pope himself on Christmas Eve.

Pope Francis in front of a classic nativity scene in St Peter’s Square at the Vatican in 2013. Photo: Filippo MONTEFORTE/AFP

3. Neapolitan style

No one does nativities quite like Naples. Head to the city’s “Christmas Alley”, Via San Gregorio Armeno, for a glimpse into the workshops that turn out many of the crib figures displayed all over Italy.

Among the usual characters, look out for fishmongers, butchers, pizza makers and other figures that have made their way into Neapolitan Christmas tradition – not to mention the pop stars, footballers politicians and other public figures that craftsmen slip in there too.

IN PICTURES: A weird and wonderful Christmas in Naples

A winged Diego Maradona figurine on Via San Gregorio Armeno, Naples. Photo: Carlo Hermann/AFP

4. Living nativities

You might do a double take when you first see one of Italy’s presepi viventi – they are made up of real people in character. And rather than being a small display, these theatrical productions are often staged across an entire town centre.

There are several living nativities across the country, but perhaps the most famous one is found in the southern Italian city of Matera, known for its ancient cave houses and magical landscape. Walking through a 5km route through the sassi, or old town, visitors pass shepherds and artisans who will direct them to the actual crib.

5. A used-car nativity

Hey, why not. This one can be seen at Rome’s annual 100 Presepi exhibition, displaying nativities of all materials and sizes from around the world.

6. An edible version

You definitely shouldn’t tuck into the nativity scene in Olmedo, Sardinia – but you could. The elaborate figures on display at the ‘presepe di pane‘ in the church of Nostra Signore di Talia are made entirely of bread. 

7. On the water

The “floating nativities” of port town Cesenatico, Emilia-Romagna, are the only ones of their kind in the world. The boats display around 50 life-size statues throughout December, portraying a scene typical of the fishing village. Each year a new statue is added, and at night, lights bring the whole scene to life.

A floating nativity scene in Cesenatico. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

8. …and under it

Head to Laveno-Mombello on Lombardy’s Lago Maggiore for a look at a sunken nativity scene. The sight of the holy family – plus some seashells and palm trees – submerged in the waters of the lake makes for a surprising, but undeniably scenic, view.

9. Made of sand

In Jesolo near Venice, a nativity scene made entirely of sand – some 1,500 tonnes of it – is created each year with a different theme. For 2021’s edition, the sand sculpture is dedicated to Italy’s health workers and their efforts during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Photo: christopher_brown/Flickr

10. Made of ice

Several (presumably colder) Italian towns instead sculpt their nativity scenes from ice. Massa Martana, a village in the province of Perugia, is one place where you can see life-sized figures carved from huge blocks of ice and dramatically illuminated.